Septic Tank Repair Stories

Honey, The Septic Tank's Acting Up Again!

Reply #1

Reduce water usage: No tub baths, brief showers with low-flow heads, replace toilet with 1.6 gallon model, divert laundry water to yard if permitted. Put food color in toilet tank overnight to check for leakage through flapper valve, replace if needed..."Kohler-Style" Korky Flapper sometimes seals when regular Korky Flapper will not.

Less water lets the upper part of the leach field recover. Extended life of my field over 5 years.

[submitted anonymously]

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Reply #2

The most noticeable sign of a failing septic system is usually the surfacing of effluent above the lateral field. In most cases the surfacing is only above one line and can been helped, if not eliminated, if the leach beds are designed for "equal distribution". This type of system uses a small tank called a distribution box to insure that all lines receive an equal amount of effluent. Insuring that the d-box worked properly used to be almost impossible and usually led to one line receiving the majority of the effluent (sometimes all).

This problem can go unnoticed for a long time because the line that is getting all the effluent is new and can handle the extra load, but as the lines age they become less efficient and surfacing can occur. When this happens you must remove the lid of the d-box and "relevel" the outlet pipes so they will receive the correct amount of effluent. This can be done easily with a product called a speed leveler or dial-a-flow. This is a cap that has an offset hole in it that can be rotated so that all of the holes can be aligned therefore "releveling" the outlets of the d-box. Speed levelers can be found at most septic tank manufacturers.

Brian Mitchell, bmitch@fs.cei.net

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Reply #3

Mine started acting up yesterday. When the washer emptied it came back out the toilet in that room and back up the washer drain pipe. Then everything started backing up through the downstairs toilet. I opened the pipe in the cellar and ran a snake through to the tank. It seemed ok for the time being but while I was at work it started all over again.

Today I snaked it again and finallly woke up and went out to the breather pipe for the line and it was clogged right full. With the snake and a rod to poke through, it cleaned it out. Have just been testing it and seems ok now. Did a load of wash and no problem yet. Flushed boith toilets a couple of times, and ok.

My point is don't forget to check the smaller problems first. I was all set to start digging and call to have it pumped. Looks like I saved a bunch.

Joe, FDUS54A@prodigy.com

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Reply #4
   My problems were very similar to "Reply #4".  Water usage from any point
in the house would cause some very nasty "stuff" to back up through a shower
drain in the lower level of our two story house.  A call to a plumber proved
useless as he could not locate an appropriate cleanout. He offered to
install one for approximately $400.  He also said that if I could locate the
septic tank he might be able to "snake" the line from the other end.

   Sounded like a good way to save $400.  I probed the ground with a steel rod
in the "greener grass" area behind the house and in a matter of minutes
located the tank.  Since it was only a foot or so below ground I decided to
uncover it myself. In the process I discovered that I have not only one tank
but a series of three tanks (two about 6 feet in diameter and one about 3
feet in diameter).

   After uncovering all three I noticed liquid slowly seeping around the lid
of the tank nearest the house.   I called a septic service company who
verified my newfound suspicion that the problem was not in the drain lines
but in the septic tank itself.  He said the tank was "waterlogged" and would
need to be pumped out.  He said he could do it the following afternoon.

   Here's where it got interesting.  Late Friday afternoon just before Labor
Day Weekend, he called to inform me he couldn't make it till the following
Tuesday due due mechanical problems with his truck.  I called every septic
company in the phone book hoping someone could do the job before the
weekend. NO SUCH LUCK!!!!

   OK, now what.  Faced with the prospect of "terds" floating in the shower
every time we used water I decided to investigate to see if there was
ANYTHING I could due to that would result in even a temporary solution.

   Late Friday night I raised the lid of the first tank and found that a
layer of thick semi-solid material had formed on the surface of the tank's
contents.  This layer was thick enough to completely block the outlet of the
first tank.  I pushed this material away from the outlet and the tank
immediately drained to the level of the outlet. I used an 8 foot 2x4 and
basically stirred this top layer thoroughly.

   OK. so now it's Saturday afternoon.  My wife has done several loads of
laundry, the toilets are flushing and nothing is coming up in the shower nor
is it leaking anywhere from the septic tanks.

   Hopefully this will continue till the septic tank guy gets here next
Tuesday.  Thank goodness for at least a temporary solution.

Trey Price (tpr451@airmail.net)

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Reply #6

There are a myriad of solutions to on-site treatment of waste water outlined in the FREE and very EXCELLENT publications by the EPA National Small Flows Clearinghouse in Morgantown, West Virginia, USA. Many of these documents are available for very modest costs and outline in detail the appropriate technology for each kind of site. Ask of the poster sized "map' showing the various sytems used in a "village" setting.

These Alternative/Innovative options have been around and working well for more than twenty years. These include sand filters, aerated systems, mound systems, chamber systems, reed systems and peat systems (for cold weather). The NSFC offers some of the best services and publications in the world on this subject.

Simply dial 1-800-624-8301, or 304-293-4191, or fax 304-293-3161. Chose option "2" on the automated entry system, ask for a copy of their publications list and to receive the Newletter and other relevent publications from this outstanding service. A search of documents may be obtained once you define your area of interest.

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Reply #7

My husband and I are using a product called Septic-Free. It is the same stuff they used in Desert Storm to clean up oil spills and spills of various types. We only need to dump a bag of the stuff in the toilets once per month for five months. The claims are that it cleans the sludge and any built up gunk in your septic tank and keeps things flowing smoothly. This only needs to be done every 5 years and the cost is under $130.00 for the 5 month supply (monthly paymn't option avail.).[see Reply #9]

You can obtain this product or info on it by calling Skilet Industries in Lansdowne PA - 610 623 6220. My husband is a pretty thorough investigator when it comes to any home product purchase, he checked it out and was sold.

D. Mitchell, NJ
"David H. Markey" (METANOIA@WORLD2U.COM)

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Reply #8

My tank went bad. Full up. Called septic tank man to have it pumped. He said that the tank was so full of grease that grease probably went thru the elbow and clogged the drain field and there was no hope but to put in a new drain field.

I went to this internet site and picked up a few pointers.

But the best solution was to open the D trap. I did not fine grease at all. I did not find tree roots. What I found was sand. Not much, but enough to clog the drain as water would back up into the septic when I put the hose into the D trap.

So. I put a garden hose into the drains one at a time to backwash the sand. Then I put a root killer into the drains just in case. Then I took one of those plumbers pigs that balloon up when water is put into them and slid it about 10 feet from the end of the drain field and turned on the water for about an hour. Each hour I moved the pig back 10 feet. When I had it almost to the D trap I left it on all night. Then I did the other drain field.

When I finished I could not fill the D trap the water drained so well into the drain field. I put in some of the high potency bacteria sold by Thonatasol thru the internet just is case.

That was 6 months ago. I saved much money and the mess of digging up my yard. I would recommend that everyone look into this sand problem. I saw no evidence of grease on the hose when I pushed it into and out of the drain field. Just fine sand that the pressure from the water from the pig must have forced thru the pipe holes.

I thank everyone for their tips.

Dave Woodman, PCREALTY@CONCENTRIC.NET

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Reply #9

I have seen some high prices for septic tank additives but the price quoted by one of your readers [Reply #7]at $130 for five months supply is the highest I have seen. BIO-SYSTEMS Corp is an ISO9002 certified manufacturer of bacterial products that offers SEPTIC KLEAN 3 for $18.75 per years supply in the US. The same product is available throughout South America and Europe under various BIO-SYSTEMS lables such as Fosseklin, Totalsept etc.

Phone 1-800 232 2847 for further information in the US or 608 365 9550 for export contacts.

Malcolm Peacock, bsc@ix.netcom.com
General Manager

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Reply #10

Be sure that your readers know that septic systems must be pumped to be maintained. The addition of bacteria can help a system continue to work properly, but it is not necessary and it will not under any conditions eliminate the need to have a system pumped. If the addition of bacteria did eliminate all of the sludge, then why does every sewage treatment plant in the world have a sludge disposal problem?

Every home is different, and every septic system is different. The best course of action is to have your tank regularly pumped by the best septic maintenance company in your area. If you have problems, there are some techniques that might help, but again, I suggest that you call the best septic maintenance company in your area for help

Bob Kendall (cole@pumper.com)

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Reply #11

BTM (manufactured by EarthCorp Environmental of Calgary, Alberta) is a totally safe, evironmentally-friendly bacteria product that can be poured directly into a septic system once a year. The bacteria in BTM survive and multiply in the rich enviroment that exists in a septic system. These organisms break down the solids and help to control and eliminate odor in the system. There is no danger of groundwater contamination should any of the solution leach out into the surrounding area. BTM is NOT A CHEMICAL, and is not harmful to humans, animals or the environment.

Contact Earthcorp at: earthcor@nucleus.com

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Reply #12

HI MY NAME IS DOYLE PIERCE AND I AM A SEPTIC TANK MANUFACTURER AND HAVE BEEN IN THE BUSINESS SINCE I WAS A YOUNG BOY, HELPING MY DAD INSTALL THEM. IN 1965 WE STARTED MANUFACTURERING THEM AND I AM STILL DOING IT TODAY. I WOULD BE HAPPY TO ANSWER QUESTIONS AND GIVE MY INPUT FROM MY EXERIENCE TO ANYONE WHO HAS A PROBLEM. E-MAIL AT doyle_gone_ropin@airmail.net.

Doyle H. Pierce, Pierce Precast Concrete, a0019445@airmail.net

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Reply #13

I started working in 1988 on a commercial sized drainfield as an operator. It absolutely had to handle up to 30,000 gallons per day without fail. We kept a tank of commercial 50% Hydrogen Peroxide on hand at all times. When there was an kind of upset in the wastewater process and the drain field was plugged solid with SOLIDS, we would add some H2O2 and it cured the problem permanently. In all the 25 years of use and abuse, this commercial drainfield has never needed any help other than the concentrated H2O2 treatments.

Michael Freeman

NOTE: Concentrated hydrogen peroxide is a dangerous, high-energy chemical. It is even used as fuel for the thrusters on the space shuttle. Another expert has told me by private e-mail that it has failed when used on leach fields and that lawsuits resulted from the attempt. I present Mr. Freeman's note for informative purposes only, and advise against the use of H2O2. -- Miles Abernathy

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Reply #14

I am currently in the septic business, and have been for 6 years. I am in the process of starting my own business. The knowledge I possess comes from experience and fear, mainly the later. My fear is fueled by the thought of having to come up with five to ten thousand dollars to rebuild my system after 15 years, only because it was not properly maintained.

I pump tanks and waste water plants, and I now know that sludge does not, for any reason, just disappear. If it did, management companies would save hundreds and thousands of dollars on pumping each year. So in my professional opinion, anyone claiming to have a "miracle cure" to fix your failing system only wants your money.

A septic system can only be properly maintained if your system is exposed. Which means, cleanouts on inlet and outlet lines, and riser lids on the tank it self. This enables you to monitor the system's essential functions. You can not maintain anything you cannot see.

Watching everything that is introduced to the system, adding bacteria to dilute the amount of sludge, and regular pumping is the only sure fire way to extend the life of a septic system.

BRUCE BARTEE, SHTBSNS@SWBELL.NET

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Reply #15

EVER HEARD OF A GROUND CRACKER? SUPPOSED TO FRACTURE THE GROUND AROUND THE FIELD ALLOWING IT TO PERK MORE WATER. EXPENSIVE TO DO BUT NOT AS EXPENSIVE AS REDOING THE WHOLE FIELD.

royw@mindspring.com

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Reply #16

We are having a problem with our system, no backup into the house but a damp-to-wet spot (varies with water usage, rain, etc) out in the yard about 12 feet from the tank itself. The excavator we contacted says the fingers (the gravel-filled trenches where the wastewater goes to seep into the ground) are clogged, the water is seeping from what he called the "junction box," and we need a $4000 repair.

My neighbor across the street is having similar problems, and is having a process done that I can't even name, having never heard ofit before. The man is there right now pumping air and styrofoam pellets into the fingers of the drain field; supposedly, this non-biodegradable stuff will aerate the field, pushing the sludge back into the tank for pumping and disposal. He offers a 1-year money back guarantee. This procedure costs $1350.

Have any of you experts heard of this? This man has been operating here in the area for more than two years, and has not had complaints. I'd love your input.

Later We went over to the neighbor's today to watch this guy in action. He has a big compressor on wheels that he trundles around the yard, drills holes in various places, then shoots in the air and these tiny tiny styrofoam beads, and the black water geysers out of the ground in various places, the gunk is forced out of the fingers of the septic field into the holding tank. Then he pumps it out of there. Theoretically, the beads remain in the ground to hold the paths open for the waste water to seep into the earth.

I had him come over to take a look at our place to see if his method would be appropriate here. First he used two light metal wires, the kind you put the little flags on to indicate the location of buried pipes before you dig, and he "witched" where the fingers would be in our yard. I didn't have any idea where they were, since we only bought here about three years ago. It was amazing to watch him do this, I'd always wanted to see a dowser in action! As it turned out, after he had found the sites and gone I looked up a diagram drawn for us by the man who built this house and dug the septic system, and by gosh they were right where the dowser said they were!

Anyway, he told me he had been a regular septic excavator until about three years ago when he went to a meeting in Nashville TN of the National Wastehandlers Convention or some such, and saw a demo of this method. He said he was sold on it and bought the machine on the spot, this was developed in Mass and is in use quite a bit back east he said.

I found it very interesting, so did my husband, and we are going to have him come in when he can and do ours. It is supposed to rain tomorrow, so it will be a week or so, he said it is not good to do it when it is too wet. He told us at the same time that if we wanted an extension excavated to our field instead that he would do it for $1200, compared to the $4000 we were quoted before. He will charge us only $900 for the air method, by the way, our field is smaller than the one across the street.

More than you wanted to know? Not very technical, I know, but we are hopeful it works, I wasn't looking forward to having the yard torn up with excavating equipment.....

Decie Meyer (Decie.M@worldnet.att.net)
Bloomington, IN

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Reply #17

One reputable product is Gayman Septic Seep, a chemical which loosens clay soils that have been "sealed" by sodium. You can buy it from Mary Gayman (tel. 800-372-9637, California time) or Municipal Contractors Supply (tel. 800-537-5800, Ohio time). This product can simply be poured down the drain, but for best results it should be poured into the distribution box or otherwise introduced into the pipe leading to the leachfield. Pumping the tank prior to introducing the chemical is recommended. It costs about $50 per gallon, and the recommended dose for a 1000-tank is one gallon. Mary Gayman wrote:

Concerning the above posting: This obviously is a contractor using the TerraLift system, which does indeed use compressed air through a hollow penetrating tube which injects styrofoam beads into the fissures developed by action of the machine.

The original concept for this method was used in European orchards to restore porosity to soils which had been compacted by heavy equipment over the years. The idea was to get nutrients and water to the roots which were in bound soils

Various "licensees" of this system have approached me about use of Septic Seep either after the injection to chemically release or reflocculate soils in leachfields bound by sodiums in the household flow.

Basically, septic systems fail due to chemical, biological or physical causes... in the presence of sodium, clay particles bond together due to anionic attraction which, in turn, acts as a barrier to penetration by wastewater. A "visquinelike" layer develops under the leach lines, causing flow to backup into the aerobic soil which contains millions of cleanup organisms per tablespoon. Once flooded, the soil bacteria "drown" and die, forming a black tarlike layer of ferrous sulfide which further blocks drainage. Finally, the flooding physically rises, backs up into the tank and, in many cases the house or rises to the surface and floods the yard.

Calcium polysulfide (the active ingredient in Drayner Septic Seep) chemically reverses the sodium influences, releasing the bond...this is called reflocculation of soils,...the soil "clumps" up in larger particles, allowing passage of flow and restoring aerobic soil conditions essential to cleanup processes.

Several days later, Mary Gayman wrote this:

The cause of soil "binding" from domestic wastewater is sodium. This is discussed in the work of McGaughy, Winneberger, Pomeroy, Bendixen(s) and Coulter and was the subject of a number of "educational" seminars around the country sponsored by the forerunner of the EPA from Cincinnati.

My father developed a product which corrects sodium bonding of clay in leachfield soil in 1953, with the cooperation of those undertaking early studies at the Sanitary Engineering Research Lab in Richmond (UC Berkeley). The end product, marketed for 40 years under the Chevron Ortho label in the Western states was named Septic Seep. The continuous record of drain field restoration with this product (liquid lime-sulfur +) continues now under the Drayner label which was the direct successor to the Ortho product following the sale of the division by Chevron in 1993.

The literature is extensive on this subject and recently enriched by a detailed and accurate ten year study by Robert Patterson PhD, University of New England, NSW, Australia. Patterson spoke at the ASTM conference in early February 1997 and his entire paper was to be / has been published by that organization.

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Reply #18

I had our septic tank pumped out several weeks ago. It had been working fine, but since we were closing on the house, we decided to pump the tank since we had no idea when the last time had been. (Longer than 8 years for sure). After that we had backed up toilets, bathtub etc. After having the first company come back and say that sludge must have clogged the leach field up and they could pump it again with out any guarantee that would work, I found another company that advertised "TerraLift" services. I had read an article the process about a year ago.

They came and aerated the leach field with a huge compressor machine. This machine had been used in Europe and had been brought to the US for use in Florida to aerate golf courses there. I was charged $750 compared to the $2000 to hook up to sewer. They give a year guarantee and will come back and aerate again if necessary. Halfway through the process, the septic tank opening "glugged" and began to drain. This company has done about 32 of these lifts the first year they had the machine and have had one failure.

Additional Information:

I live on a cliff above the Gunnison River in Grand Junction, Colorado. I believe it is mostly sandstone. My email address is Kimcce@AOL.COM.

It better work since I will be living in the mother-in-law unit while the new owners move into the main house which is on the septic!! Bestway really stands behind the process and will come back out to aerate more if there is any problem.

Thanks, Kim
Kimcce@aol.com

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Reply #19

From: MMROUR@prodigy.net

I recently (6-2-97) had the Terra Lift done on my system which consists of two leaching pits instead of a leach field. The system was overflowing before I had the procedure done. They came and did their work, and the pits have not even come close to filling up since.

Another comment I have is on a product called Cess-Flo available at large home centers, it is made up of hydrogen dioxide and bacteria, I added this after the TerraLift was done and the level in my pits dropped even further. This product was recommended by the person who did the work.

I live in northeastern MA. and the soil conditions here in my area are not that great. We know several neighbors who have had replacements done even though the development is only 15 years old.

Marty

Follow-up:

Miles,
I had recently e-mailed you about the success I had with the terra lift. Today I was working in the yard trying to repair the damage I had done when I originally dug up the leach pits. I uncovered both pits just to see how they were doing before I planted grass seed, and to my suprise and dismay one of the pits was overflowing again. I called the company that did the procedure and they are coming out to see if they can remedy the situation, so all is not lost. I will keep you updated.

Follow-up:

I told you I would keep you informed as to what was happening with my system. It took quite awhile to get the owner of the company that did the terra-lift at my home to come out and look at the situation, when he finally did come to my home he redid the procedure on the one leach pit that was not responding and the pit is now operational. He also gave me a one year guarantee on the work.

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Reply #20

Informative reading related to tanks. We've lived in this house 25 years, moved in not knowing a thing about them. Learning the hard way. Wish this site had been available a long time ago. Less headaches would have happened.

Barbara

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Reply #21

My field started to saturate this spring, since the water table was quite high. I wasn't too worried. Big mistake, I wish I would have looked into it a lot sooner. This September I exposed my laterals and hired a hydrovac to snake and flush the build up out of them. (A hydrovac is a vacuum truck / pressure tank truck. What it does is flush the lateral with high pressure water through a 1/2" hose. The end of the hose has jets that push the water back to the large vacuum hose that sucks up the waste. The company I got to do this is primarily used for the oilfield industry but any high pressure water snake would be adequate, and then just reserve the services of a septic vacuum truck.)

We found that 3 of the 5 laterals were impassable. So I took on the job of excavator, After my wife and I started to expose the laterals we found a number of them crushed. Since we replaced them, all seems well (knock on wood). I guess to prevent this problem from occurring again I'm going to till the field area every year to keep the soil from compacting. Also a long term chemical treatment in now in the works, as well as getting that hydrovac out every 3-4 years to flush my laterals. For only $200, it's cheap insurance.

Dave Hrycauk, dhrycauk@ccinet.ab.ca

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Reply #22

Having worked in both the regulatory and consulting/design aspects of septic systems (on-site sewage facilities), the most important aspect of avoiding septic tank problems is to have your TANK PUMPED REGULARLY. This is the only way to avoid excessive scum and sludge accumulation, which will damage your septic system. Bacterial additives are not needed (think about it - fecal matter is primarily bacteria, viruses, and other micro-organisms), the first time you use your septic system you are inoculating it with all the microbes needed, aerobic and anaerobic.

Hoping this helps someone-

Gregrey S. White, R.S.
Hill Country Aerobic Design Works
grey@gvtc.com

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Reply #23

Subject: Plea from a Pennsylvania sewage enforcement officer!!!

I have been testing and inspecting on-lot sewage systems for 9 years. Nearly all the malfunctioning sewage systems that I have had to deal with were from improper maintenance. Usually, not pumping the tank every 2-3 years. Many times it is from the use of the various additives that are being recommended in this article. Their claim is to clean the septic tank. The sole purpose of the septic tank is to be DIRTY, and collect solids and grease, to be pumped out occasionally. By breaking down those solids with additives, those semi-solids will now carry over into the leech field which will form a biological mat at the soil surface. Basically like installing a swimming pool liner. Do not take my word for this, refer to the late summer 1997 issue of Small Flows Clearinghouse. This is a national, independent magazine dedicated only to wastewater treatment.

Another method mentioned was a system of drilling small holes in the area of the leech field and fracturing the soil with high pressure air, then back filled with styrofoam beads. This system, as mentioned, is expensive, and it will help some, if you change your habits and pump the septic tank and practice water conservation, and don't flush any thing that you aren't supposed to.

Once a leech field is plugged up and backs up, there is only one known way to improve this condition. Let the field rest (absolutely no discharge to it) for at least one year. This allows the biological mat to break down. (Try holding it that long.)

Remember, if you start changing anything to do with the septic tank or leech field, check with your municipal government (secretary) first. In most states a permit is required for these changes to prevent you from throwing your money away on schemes that help for a little while then make it worse.

Rich Palm at seo@mail.csonline.net

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Reply #24

Long comment: What has worked for me is ...nothing. I have a flyer on Septal. Has anybody heard of it and does it work? It says it is supposed to sludge out the tank and lines. I need to make my lines flow better. Any info would be appreciated.

Bernie Richard (berrich@aol.com)

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Reply #25

What has worked for me is flushing 1 package of yeast down the toilet every month. Have had septics all my life..never had a problem. Don't know if this really works or if I've been lucky.

Paul Hammerl, lhammerl@cdc.net

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Reply #26

I am a code enforcement officer for St. Charles County Missouri. I have been looking through your suggestions and may have one for some of you. I have found that many of these older septic tanks have a concrete baffle on the out-flow side of the tank that is designed to prevent the scum layer and any solids still floating on the top from being passed into the drainfield. Many times these baffles deteriorate and fall into the tank, allowing the scum layer to pass into the drainfield. This will wreck a drainfield in no-time. If you are having problems with surfacing of effluent and have a septic system that is 15 years old or older, have the back half of your tank dug up and exposed. Many tanks have a access port located directly above the rear outlet, if not, you will have to remove the lid of the tank itself. If there is no baffle simply take a PVC tee, put about 18 inches [45 cm.] of pipe on one side of the tee, and connect the tee to the pipe going out of the back of the tank. The tee will look more like a upside-down L. This will draw the effluent from the middle of the tank, be! low the scum layer, and above the sludge layer. If you have any comments, please e-mail me.

dwalker@mail.win.org (Dan Walker)

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Reply #27

From my experience with septic systems over the past 7 years is that the only solution for properly maintaining a septic tank is periodic cleaning by a licensed septic contractor in your local area. The environmental health department has a list of the licensed septic tank companies that are set up to do work in that county. By pumping out a septic tank you remove the solids that are broken down by the bacteria in the tank, If the solids accumulate they will eventually seep out into the drain field and clog the holes to which the water passes through, causing the effluent to surface in the yard near the septic tank or somewhere near the field lines. Pumping out a septic tank you extend the life of the system. Check your local Environmental Health Department for the recommendation on the periodic cleaning of your septic system.

nubb@bellsouth.net

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Reply #29

Roger Machmeier has a good suggestion in his column in the April issue of Pumper magazine, a trade publication. Someone wrote in asking how to eliminate septic odor from house vent pipes. Machmeier replied that he knows of two companies that make activated carbon / charcoal filters designed for the purpose...they fit on top of the house vents. One is Sweet Septic Systems, Inc., 5701 Mother Lode Drive, Placerville CA 95667, tel. 800-622-8768, fax 916-622-1087. They say that their product is self-purifying...the sun's heat on sunny days rejuvenates the charcoal, so no refills are required.

The other company is Orenco Systems, Inc., 814 Airway Ave., Sutherlin OR 97479, tel. 888-878-3752, fax 541-459-2884. Their "OSI Carbon Filter" costs US$29 for 3-inch, $49 for 4-inch. Charcoal refills are less than $7.

An unrelated product is made by Septic Protector Company, tel. 800-242-6737. It is the Septic Protector, an in-line filter to prevent lint from your washing machine from entering the septic tank. Such lint is often non-bio-degradable (polyester, nylon, etc.), so it passes through the septic tank and out to the leachfield, where it clogs the lines and field. The filter assembly price is US$160 and up.

Miles Abernathy, mail -AT- swopnet.com

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Reply #29

Problem: New (6 year old) sand filter installation is failing... OK, it's out-and-out failed. The septic tank overflows almost continuously, and when I uncovered the D-box, the pit immediately flooded to about 6" above the box lid. Won't go down either. I called out a professional, nice chap. He listened to what I could tell him about it, thought for about 30 seconds, and said the problem is the drain pipe that was installed. Brand name: Hancore [probably Hancor]. This pipe was installed with a "sock" or sleeve of permeable plastic around it that was intended to keep the sand from the filter out. Problem is that after a few years of use, the micropores in the membrane clog up (from his description I assume that a microbial mat is what clogs it).

The fix: first try a super strong dose of chlorine (sodium hyperchloride)[sic, probably sodium hypochlorite] added at the D-box. This kills the microbial mat and clears the way for the next step. Allow the chlorine to flush through for a couple of days. Then add an enzyme (don't know what it is yet) that destroys the sock membrane. Once the sand filter is in place and has settled, there apparently is no continued need for the sock. The only other option is to dig up all of the surface distribution lines and replace them with conventional drain pipe. So far the jury is still out. The field drains so slowly that I'm not convinced any of the chlorine is getting to it. Anybody else heard of this problem and/or fix? Am I wasting my time, or is this a bona-fide solution to a known problem? What about Hancore? If the story is true, this sounds like a product liability issue.

Tom Kendall (keff@revealed.net)

[Website owner's note: If the membrane-filter sock around the pipe is causing the problem, it is unclear how much blame can be assigned to the pipe. Hancor sells both membrane filters and pipes.] ===

Reply #30

In response to Tom Kendall's flooded drainfield, Tom needs to check his daily water flows, possibly install a water meter to insure his daily flows are not exceeding his septic system design. Go back through the site evaluation information that the system's design was based on such as soils, percolation test, lineal feet, or square feet of drainfield, before we blame product failure. Graveless pipe is a proven product provided the contractor has followed the criteria as to proper installation and education of his customer for maintenance and water conservation.

Pat Beemer, pbeemer@rconnect.com

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Reply #31

"One dead jackrabbit a year in the cess pool will keep it working." That was the advice of one old farmer in the area where I ran a pumper business for many years. Yeast, fish guts, and commercial additives were all popular among the old timers. I didn't care what they used, as long as they had the tank pumped as needed, which meant the guy with the rabbit floating around needed it pumped more than normal. The best advice is to have the tank inspected for sludge and scum depth, and pump as necessary. The tanks walls should be washed down, and a small amount of "seed sludge" should be left in the bottom. A couple of gallons is enough. The heavy use of garbage disposals, and high detergent clothes soap, cuts the recommended pump out interval in half. Installation of an outlet effluent filter, and a gas deflector on the bottom of the outlet pipe, would be money better spent than on additives.

Laurence Parker, lparker@state.ut.us

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Reply #32

A lot of suggestions, the main one is to use the table given for the number of people to years of pumping. Also a note, if the number of women exceed the number of men, then you may want to pump more often. A lot of toilet paper is a big culprit - women use more than men. And, I have been warned by a number of 'honey' dippers [septic tank pump truck operators] to not use Charmin, because it doesn't break down as fast as other brands.

After 22 years, my field gave out, started to break out at the end of the lines. Heard about TerraLift, and just had it done. They dug a hole (test) in the field and it immediately filled up and overflowed - the field was not draining. After they blasted one hole, the test hole emptied half way. The first blast was like an earthquake, the whole field raised up. After they were about half done, the test hole was completely dry. Will keep an eye on it and see what happens, but it definitely looks good. Interesting way that they found the pipes in the field, as mentioned previously, they use brass rods (dowsing). After the pipes were found, he just threw the rods on the ground, so I tried it, WOW, it definitely works. Would like to know how brass rods can find pipes filled with water???

As to one suggestion, especially if you are in a small town, do NOT let your health officer know what you are doing, because you don't know what deals he has with septic tank companies. In a neighboring town they practically banned the TerraLift system because of a complaint by a septic system company. They were losing money from replacing fields, a $5 to $10K bill. In my town the health officer is also the road agent who contracts with a septic system company for snow plowing, etc.

RALPH_BOEHM@MSN.COM

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Reply #33

There have been a lot of claims here about miracle cures, but most of the problem is the day to day use and care of the fields themselves. Septic fields have a multitude of bacteria that actually cause the tank to operate as it was intended. But everyday the owners are putting chemicals down their sinks and toilets (bleach, drain cleaners) that kill off the bacteria that perform the necessary functions. If enough chemicals are flushed into the tank you can kill off enough bacteria at that time to make the tank virtually worthless. Stop using drop in tablets in your toilets, go easy on the bleach in your wash and when cleaning, and stop flushing anything other than toilet paper and the obvious down your toilet.

fileccia@htonline.com

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Reply #34

What has worked for me is connecting to a city sewer system. It works and you don't have to worry about future problems.

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Reply #35

I use a floating outlet from Rissy Plastics. This is mounted in a tank that replaces the distribution box and sends out a 300 gallon surge of water at 130 GPM, flooding the whole leach field at once. The water from the septic tank is then held back until another 300 gallons is collected. This delay gives the field time to rest and absorb the water. No more green soggy areas of lawn to mow. Most dosing tanks require electrical pumps for forced distribution but this one is gravity powered and mine works with only 15" of water level. (When was the last time there was a gravity outage?) I installed this unit myself three years ago and had never worked on a home system before.

Matt Cauthorn, matthew.cauthorn@alcoa.com

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Reply #36

I have had problems with my lateral systems not leaching properly. I had the local Terralift contractor come out and treat the system 6 moths ago. Since it failed after a couple months I had him out again. The since has failed and been retreated twice since the original treatment. I now have standing water in my backyard and the contractor is not returning my calls.
Tom Wilson, wiltom@uswest.net

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Reply #37

Your SwopNet web site is a favorite of mine. I have an anaerobic (old fashioned) septic tank that I pumped out in 1988. Family of four. Have not pumped it since. No additives,(Rid-ex, Bio-Aid, etc). Maybe I’m setting myself up for lateral line replacement. but I told my Aggie Engineer Uncle I wasn’t going to pump it for 20 years.

Mark from Central Texas

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Reply #38

Hi. My washer began backing up, overflowing out the elbow, every time I did a wash and it hit the drain cycle, flooded everything each time it happened. (6 months) Frustrated, we decided to have the septic tank pumped out- it had been almost 3 years, 1000 gal tank 3 people. 2.5 yrs ago was almost full so we thought maybe it was time. (or worth a shot anyway) Pumped out last week. All fine for a week. 

Today, when we flush either our upstairs or downstairs toilet, water (not sewage) overflows out the elbow pipe by the washer. (washer and these pipes are in the basement) Nothing went in these toilets that shouldn't have. We can pin it down to one of 3 flushes, it was dry then these 3 flushes then it was flooded. No clue what's going on. Tank is empty; could it be a leech field problem? Other thoughts or options?

Tank, house and field are 17 yrs old.-built by our builder, original owner, pumped every 3 yrs on avg., sandy soil. Tank is 10 ft directly out from house where pipes come out. Lawn goes about 50 ft (of leech field I am guessing) back then hills. Could the stuff be hitting the hills and somehow backing up? Just don't get why it comes down the toilets fine ( no backup there) but doesn't quite make it out to the tank.

Any thoughts or advice gladly accepted! Joe 

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Reply #39

First of all I am a 39 year old woman, and until today the only thing I knew about the septic was that thing on your Toliet,,,and that makes all the nasty stuff go down to something in your ground and that was all I wanted to know. well, bought 7 acres with QUOTE the seller the septic is very new only 2 years old, 22000 double tank and with just two of you, you will never have any big cost but to have it drained about once every 5 years and at 150.00 that sounded GREAT!! Well, first of all if you have a double tank, remember this word it is one you should NEVER FORGET,,,a switch, yes a switch to switch your tank over if one side fills up. But the trick to this is where is the switch? If your a woman like me, hell I think switch like a light switch, easy!! Ha Ha how wrong I was, it took me 8 hours of looking for this so caled switch, called a friend of mine and he told me this he assumed I knew what kind of switch I had, so he said Laura look in your Leech field and you will !

see a white PVC pipe ground level and down in there is the switch, easy enough I thought wow what a dummy I was, well it was in the leech field, but it was in a green pvc pipe the color of my carpet grass, and covered, my neighbors must have thought I was on drugs,,looking at my grass for 8 hours like an IDIOT, well found that damned switch,,,now the good part you need no not need you HAVE TO HAVE A TEE Turner TOOL to switch it, so I call this friend back and ask him where would the tool be,,this gets better he says the previous owners probably nailed it to a tree, guess what I have at least 500 trees, so now my neighbors think she found her drugs on the ground now that crazy woman is talking to every tree she has for yep another 4 hours, did not find that tool so I had to finally borrow one. You think my story is funny? Well, let it happen to you and we can laugh together, take my advice, you are probably thinking hahaha that will never happen to me, well if you want it NOT!

TO HAPPEN to you, well if you did not install your septic yourself you better get out there and find it now and not when you HAVE GOT TO FIND IT, and make sure you have that tool. Those switches are kinda like that Flush handle you have got to have, and the switch can save you the 100.00 service call, and the other 100.00 he gets to laugh to himself saying Idiots don't even know that they have a switch,,easy money!! The Moral of this story? S$%T Happens!!! 

Laura C

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Reply #40

I had a similar problem to most of the other people here, except I had a new system, less than a year old. I had water backing up into the floor drain whenever we washed cloths. I called the septic guy but he never called back, so I started searching the web for information, which is how I found this site. I read everybody's story, but still did not get my problem fixed. After looking up how septic systems work and unearthing a little of mine I found that liquids were not getting to the drainfield. I snaked it from the junction box back towards the tank but did not find anything. I then ran the snake in the liquid side of the tank and found many "feminine hygiene" products and "flushable wipes" but still did not open up the outlet. I knew the outlet port had to be plugged but could not figure out how to get into it since it is about four feet down. I finally thought of using a six foot piece of plastic water line I had left over from construction. It was the pex type that was coiled up, when I pushed it down the pipe on the liquid side of my septic tank it curved right into the outlet port and cleared the clog. It sounded like a waterfall, music to my ears! Thanks for everyone who took time to send in their story.

Scott Hanson

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Miscellaneous Information

How often should you pump your septic tank?

Time Table for Inspecting and Pumping Your Septic Tank (in years)

		Number of People Using the System
Tank Size
(gallons)	1	2	4	6	 8
----------------------------------------------------
		-------- Number of Years --------
  900		11	5	2	1	<1
1,000		12	6	3	2	 1
1,250		16	8	3	2	 1
1,500		19	9	4	3	 2
----------------------------------------------------

For example, if there are 4 people living in your house and your septic tank can hold 1,000 gallons, the tank should be inspected and pumped at least every three years.

Source: Adapted from "Estimated Septic Tank Pumping Frequency," by Karen Mancl. 1984. Journal of Environmental Engineering. Volume 110, via http://h2osparc.wq.ncsu.edu/info/farmassit/f_septic.html.

A lot of information can be found at the Richard Septic Systems website. Even for those who live outside the New England business area of this company, their on-line catalog can be educational.

Here are some useful, informative books from Amazon...and one just for fun. Most new books from Amazon qualify for free shipping if the total order is $25 or more.

More Septic Tank Information

Return to Septic Tank Page, which has lots more information.